G’day Chris here, and welcome back to Clickspring. In this video I make a start on the pendulum
assembly by making the regulator and the suspension
post. The suspension mechanism for the pendulum
is an interesting bit of low tech, given that its based around a fine cord of
silk. Its a simple and elegant idea. The silk thread catches a hook on the end
of the pendulum, and then threads up through the suspension
post to the Regulator above. The regulator shaft can be rotated to wind
up the thread, which adjust the effective length of the pendulum, and a set screw locks it in place. There’s some depthing and layout work required
to locate the rods in the rear plate, some more custom screws to be made, as well as a perfect opportunity to introduce
some rope knurling to the clock construction. So let’s get started. Wildings construction plans specify brass
rod for both the regulator and the suspension post, but I’ve chosen to make them from drill rod
instead. I think the contrasting materials will look
excellent together, and given that its quite a tough steel, it should have a greater ability to resist
marking and wear than the brass. The regulator shaft needs a small indentation to accommodate the set screw that holds it
firm, so I formed that feature first. And with that complete, I formed a dome shape
on the other end with a graver. Next up is the suspension post which needs
a short thread formed on one end to screw into the rear frame, and the same sort of domed shape as the regulator
on the other end. Now both of these parts need cross holes drilled
for the silk thread, but the orientation of the holes for the suspension
post must be vertical for it to look correct. I can’t know that position until its inserted
into the frame, so next I need to mark out and then drill
the mounting holes. The hole positions are located relative to
the pallet arbor pivot hole, so I’m using the depthing tool to lay out
that first position on the centerline of the frames. So that’s the pallet arbor position marked
out, and although I’m not installing the pallet
arbor in this video, I do need to accurately transfer this location
to the back frame, so that I can use it to as a reference point
to mark out the holes that I do need. So I have both plates mounted on the mill, and I’m drilling all of the way through the
front frame, but taking care to just spot the surface of
the rear frame. By doing this, I’ve made a small mark that
I can use for the rest of the layout. In a future video I’ll open up a hole adjacent
to this position, to accept an eccentric bushing for the pallet
arbor. With the positions marked out, the lower hole can be drilled and tapped for
the suspension post, and the upper hole drilled and reamed to accept
the regulator. The upper surface of the suspension post can
now be identified, and the cross holes formed. A quick deburr of the holes, and I can leave these parts as they are for
the moment, while I move on to the regulator thumbwheel. Now in a previous video, I made a set of rope knurls and a bump knurling
tool holder, and this is one of the parts I had in mind
when I made them. A rope knurl is an excellent way to embellish
an otherwise simple part, and very easily give it a bit of extra character
and class. With the knurl in place, I drilled and reamed
the center hole, and then formed the rest of the profile by
hand using a graver. A light polish brings up the surface finish,
and the thumbwheel is ready to be parted off. Now I need to clean up that parted off surface, so I’m using a scrap of drill rod as a stub
arbor, and fixing the part in place with a spot of
super glue. With that surface cleaned up, the glue can
now be soaked off with acetone, releasing the thumbwheel, and then it can
be permanently bonded to the regulator post with some Loctite 603. And at this point I decided that a small brass
collar would be a useful feature to add to the regulator, to set the depth when its inserted directly, rather than relying on the set screw to pull
it in. So I turned that up next, making sure that the profile of the collar
would be a close match with the contours of the adjacent washer when
its installed. Again a great excuse for some more hand turning. A light sand and polish brought up the surface
finish, and then as for the thumbwheel, the part was reversed and mounted on a stub
arbor, to clean up the parted face. OK, so that’s the suspension hardware complete, now I need to form the hole for the set screw
that will hold the regulator in position. To form this hole, the rear frame needs to
be securely held at full length to the spindle. And you can see that its right at the limit
of what I can reasonably accommodate on my small mill. If the frame was any taller, I’d probably have to come up with an alternative
way of doing this on the lathe. I’ve got the work strapped down to a vertical
slide, and I’ve run a section of steel along the
upper length of the frame, to give it some extra rigidity particularly
at the top where I’m going to be making this hole. I’m using a piece of brass rod stock to help
locate the axis of the hole, and I’m leaving that in place while I drill
too, as a bit of extra protection against the drill
grabbing as it breaks through into the opening. That hole was then tapped, and the extension
marked out so that it could be reduced to its final dimension. And I’ve been keeping the matching extension
on the front plate, on the off chance that it might be useful
for holding the plates. But I don’t think I’ll be needing it from
here on, so that can come off completely. Both surfaces were brought to the line with
the belt sander, and then given a quick finish with abrasive
paper. Now for the fasteners. The set screw is a straight forward cheesehead
screw with the typical features you’ve seen for
the rest of the clock fasteners. But the rear pillar screw is the only fastener
in the entire build with a countersink head. This is to give more clearance for the suspension
thread to wind onto the regulator post, close to
the clock frame. Once the features for the screws were formed,
they were hardened, tempered and polished, and then heat blued
on a bed of brass chips. And that completes all of the components for
the pendulum suspension, so lets put them in place and see how they
all fit together. In the next video I’ll complete the pendulum
assembly, by making the hook, rod and bob. Thanks for watching, I’ll see you later. And if you’ve just made your way into this
clockmaking series, thanks for checking it out. This is just one episode of a longer series, where I show all of the steps to make a mechanical
clock from raw metal stock, so be sure to check out those other videos. If you’d like to help me bring you more project
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to exclusive Patron only video content, free plans for the patron projects, and the chance to win the actual project at
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bunch of other cool stuff. There’s a bit more information about this, as well as plenty of project plans available
at clickspringprojects.com Thanks again for watching, I’ll catch you
on the next video.