Marc – So today I want to
talk about shop lighting and before I show you what
I installed here in the new shop let’s take a
trip down memory lane, to a simpler time, 2012.
When I built the dream shop. I did my research on lighting at the time and it seemed pretty clear to
me that T8 fluorescent bulbs were the way to go. They had phased out the T12’s,
T8’s were smaller, brighter, more efficient and it just
seemed like a logical solution. Now LED was around at the time
but the problem was it was cost prohibitive and
there really wasn’t a lot in the way of options for that. So T8 was really the only way to go. Since then, about five years
later, we now have tons of LED choices. The market has taken off,
there’s a lot of options, and the cost has really come down. Now here in the shop here
in Denver we actually are working with American Green
Lights to outfit all the LED’s in the shop and it is nice
and bright and beautiful and looks good on video and I have two different
types of fixtures. And I’ll show those to
you later but for now, I want to talk a little
bit about some terminology. Because in order to be an
informed shopper you need to know some basic terms. And I’ll tell you this lighting
stuff, you could really geek out on it, and it is
certainly a science that you need to master if you’re going
to get into the business. But if you’re just buying
shop lights, you just need to know a few terms to
understand what you’re buying. So the type of light we’re
talking about today is LED. That stands for light emitting diode. Now we’re not going to get
into the science behind it but just understand that it’s
brighter, it’s more efficient, so it costs less to run,
and it produces less heat. Now when you look at lights
you’re going to see a bunch of different numbers on the packaging and the next three terms
deal with what those numbers actually mean. One important one is Lumens. Lumens is total light output and that’s just how they measure it. So if you have a lot of
lumens, it’s going to be really really bright,
and if the number is low it’s not going to be as bright. You also see references in
literature to foot candles, we’re not going to really get into that. It’s related to Lumens but most commercial products
I’ve seen reference Lumens and that’s where we’re going
to keep our discussion today. The next number you might see is CRI. That stands for color rendering index. Now when it comes to artificial
light, some are better at showing you what the colors
actually look like than others. What we’re comparing this to is daylight. Natural sunlight is a 100 on the index. Basically it is showing you
vivid colors and you can see the colors accurately for what they are. With artificial light, some
of them aren’t very good so if the number is low it
means that you’re not really going to see red as true
red or blue as true blue. But if it’s a high CRI
in the 90’s maybe 90-05 that actually means the
colors are going to be bright and vivid and very close to what natural daylight would produce. Next up is color temperature. You’ll see this as a
number with a k at the end, it stands for Kelvin. That’s just the scale
that it’s measured in. If you go 5,000 Kelvin or
higher you tend to get into your blues and your whites. It looks like a cooler color. If you go below 5,000 the
2 or 3,000’s that’s warmer and you’re going to see
more yellows and reds. Now this matters because
the way the light reflects onto surfaces and things in
the shop it can actually give you an unrealistic view of
what the color of that thing actually is. Now as someone who does video
this is extremely important to me. It may not be as
important to you, but you still want a color that kind of
makes sense for the space. When it comes to these colors
I think it’s interesting if you look inside a house,
most people can’t exactly tell you what the right
color is for temperature, but they will tell you the
wrong color temperature. So if you go into a living
room space and someone has daylight spectrum 6,000k bulbs in there, it’s not comfortable, it’s weird. It would feel odd to
sit in the living room that’s brightly lit with 6,000k. But if you go into a
laundry room let’s say, or a work area and it’s lit
with 3,000k light bulbs, a very warm light. It’s going to feel weird in there, it’s going to look dim, it’s not going to be
a bright active space. So for a workshop, in my
opinion, I think 5,000k is a pretty good number. I find that pretty useful
with video if I get a little natural light coming
in through the windows combing with the artificial
light it doesn’t really throw things off too much. And natural light, by the way, is 6500k. So you would think maybe
I should just go 6500, well that’s a little hard on the eyes. If you’ve ever been in a
building that uses 6500k lights it’s just so blue and so bright that I just find it difficult. So most people are going to be
uncomfortable in that space. So for me I max out at about 5,000k. Now Jim over at American Green
Lights did an amazing job sort of looking at my shop
space and helping me determine what the best layout is and
what kind of lights I would need to properly light this space. Not just for woodworking
but for video work. So let me show you the details. Jim requested two things from me, my shop dimensions as well
as my proposed tool layout. It’s a little earlier to
fully commit to tool locations but I figured, hey let’s run with it. Jim recreated my layout using his software and place a series of 24
watt and 60 watt fixtures throughout the shop, with light being focused over
each major tool or work area. He think generated a heat
map showing the areas where light would be brightest. As you can see the tool areas
are yellow, orange and red meaning you’ll be brightly lit. The areas between the tools
are a lot less important but since most of the shop is
green that means there will be a fair amount of light
consistently cast around the shop to help limit shadows which
really helps with my video work. Now let’s look at the lights themselves. Now here’s a 24 watt fixture
and we kind of saved this to last because it’s got
a nice dent in there, unfortunately but you can see
I’ve got a nice strip of LED’s here and the driver is encased in it’s own little compartment and of
course the LED’s mount on top like this. Alright so all you need to do
is connect this to standard 120 volt power. You’ve got your hot, your
neutral and your ground. Pretty straightforward. And this guy produces about
2500 lumens and the color rendering index is 92 to
95 so really good quality. The 60 watt fixture is
a little bit larger. We’ve got five LED strips
here, two drivers in the case and this guy puts out 6,000 lumens. Now keep in mind that my
shop is half woodworking shop but also half video studio. So the things I’m concerned about and the amount of attention I’ve paid to lighting might be a little bit more
than you’re prepared to do. But at least if you
know some of these terms when you go and shop for lights, you can be more informed and
make sure you’re getting a quality product because guess what? There’s a lot of stuff
coming in from overseas and it’s very hard to verify
the quality of those things. So at least knowing the
terminology you can make an informed buying decision. Of course, check out
American Green Lights. They make a fantastic product
and in addition to this video we actually have a little article
that my buddy Vic wrote up telling you a little bit about
the different types of LED lights that are out there, with
some recommendations as well that you might want to
incorporate into your shop. Because sometimes brand new
LED’s are not necessarily the way to go. There are retrofit kits and
replacements for T8 bulbs that are LED which is pretty cool. Alright, so be sure to check
that out on the website. Thanks for watching everybody.