(popping) Hello I’m Odin and this
time I’m gonna make what is quite possibly
my most requested prop. The Aperture Science portal gun. I’ve made a portal gun
before on DIY Prop Shop. But that was from Rick and Morty. But this time I’m gonna make the Aperture Science Hand Held Portal device. To start, I wanna make the
white housing of the device. My original plan was
to carve the shape from a styrofoam block and then pull a pattern. But the guys at Smosh allowed me to borrow their portal gun and replica toy. And I thought I’d just pull a pattern from that and save myself a step. The pattern technique
I’m using is what evil Ted Smith shows us in his videos. If you wanna know more about
how to make these patterns, please check out his channel. I cut the rear shell into three sections because I want the pattern
pieces to lay flat. And the front shell is
cut into two sections. I only need to make pattern
pieces for one side cause I can flip them over and make
all the parts symmetrical. And I add little guide marks
to help me put it together. I can use a heat gun to start
the curse shape on the foam. I’m using a bell of a
punch bowl label that I got from the dollar store as a
form to help with the curves. And there’s a big panel
line that runs down the center of the back of the shell. So I cut out a trench
for that center line. And after I glue them together,
I can add a little strip of tulum craft foam that’ll
hide all my cut marks. As I glue the foam together
with contact cement, I make sure I line up those
pattern guides and I keep the surface of the seams flat. Since I cut all of my
parts from different scraps of EBA format foam they have
slightly different thicknesses. And I want the uneven seams on the inside. When all the parts are
glued together, the tension of the foam opens the shell wider. But once it’s glued to the
underside of the device, the foam will be pulled
into the correct shape. Next I start to take measurements from the toy to make
the body of the device. Now I could do this with
a full size printout of a picture of the device but
I got the toy right here. Now I’m gonna start on the back where the grip is and work my way forward. The chamber is not a true round
tube, it’s more of an oval. And after cutting an 18 inch
strip to be the right size which is an oval that’s
about six inches tall and about five inches wide,
I can free hand the handle shape into some half in plywood. And then I’ll cut that out on the bandsaw. This is how the device will
be held, possibly all day, so it needs to be strong
enough to handle it. So I did a little bit of
sanding and I basically got the handle to what I want. What I really wanna do with
the portal gun is make it light up, now I know the
actual portal gun lights up, makes sound and changes color. I’m not gonna try and do all that. All I want it to do is light up blue when I pull the trigger. So for a trigger, I’m
gonna use the same switch that comes with the Nintendo zapper. I didn’t wanna tear
anymore of those up like I did for the Rick and Morty portal gun, so instead I have some surplus
ones I bought off eBay. (upbeat music) After I test my wiring and that the LEDs light up, I’m good to go. I solder the wires to the
switch and cut out a place for it to go in the wood handle. I also use a dremel to make
a path for the wires to be. And then glue everything
together with the wooden coffee stir sticks and wood glue. And I was careful not to
get glue inside the switch. I crafted up a foam core
template for the inside shape of the main
chamber, I check the fit, and then trace that onto plywood. Then I can attach the oval to the grip. Pre drilling the wood to
prevent it from splitting and add some glue to be sure. I also drilled a hole for
the wires to pass through. Then I set in the oval in the main chamber rig and
hot glued it in place. Then I went ahead and glued
the foam core piece in as well. I make a smaller ring
between the main chamber and the grip and I add some 2mm foam to the rings to add extra panels. I wrap all the exposed
wood with 5mm and 2mm foam. And then I use a dremel
to shave the handle. I make a foam box inside the ring. This’ll give me a place for
the battery pack to live and by putting it here I can get to the batteries and change it out later. I measure and cut a piece
of foam from the underside of the barrel cutting a notch
to fit around the wood grip. And I add more foam to
continue the main housing. This’ll be where the LEDs will go. I’ve got my switch, I’ve got my batteries. What I need to do is make the light. In fact, with the portal gun,
there’s a whole clear barrel in the front here and of
course that is what lights up. And what I thought about using
was a Smart Water bottle. Seems to be about the
right shape, it’s too wide. So I looked around and I
found the store brand of sparkling water, this has
got the exact shape as Smart Water but it’s
only 7 1/2 inches around and the labels very easy to remove. It’s got a little tiny
bit of glue on the bottom, I’ll just put that down on
the gun, it’ll all be good. Now for the core, in the
center, the part that actually lights up what I’m gonna use is a piece of polycarbonate tube. This is actually a
little bit leftover from the light saber blades I made for VIP. I’ve got plenty of these
scraps, I’m just gonna use it. After emptying the
bottle, I cut the top off and make the foam rings
that need to go inside. I use black 5mm craft foam for
everything that you can see. Because once this is all glued together, there’d be no way to paint these parts. I also super glue the rings
to the polycarbonate tube and then put it all together. To diffuse the light inside
the polycarbonate tube, I roll up a piece of clear gift wrap
plastic and put it inside. You wouldn’t be able to see the light in the tube without this. The LEDs are white and
I need them to blue. I just look around the shop,
I found packages of screws which are transparent blue plastic. So I cut a piece out and
glued it between pieces of foam and the LED
holder for the flashlight. Later on I found that blue painters tape would’ve worked as well. Wiring of the LEDs is
easy, the circuit boards arranged like a ring and the outside is negative and the center is positive. I solder the wires to the
LEDs and test the connection. Now to connect all the
wires inside the device. I should’ve left the top
piece of foam off for this as it was a pain working around it. I made sure to add heat
shrink to immediately cover all my connections to
prevent a short circuit because I plan to glue this all together and I don’t wanna cut it open again later. I have extra connections for the top light which is a little LED headlamp. I solder the wires so they
bypass the switch in the circuit board and everything lights
up when the trigger is pulled. I cut a hole for the round light that is on top of the device. And the water bottle cap
is nearly the perfect size. I add more blue package to tint these LEDs and I’ll glue it in place later. I support these LEDs with
more foam and I align the under barrel piece with 2mm
craft foam to hide the texture. I cut more rings of foam to
hold the barrel in place. Now I didn’t really measure
these they were just cut to fit. And I actually started to do
that a lot for this build. I have plans and dimensions
and a description but there are some pieces you’ll need to
figure out for your own device. It’s a portal gun, I cut even
more rings to start the muzzle adding strips to keep the barrel level. And for the actual muzzle,
I’m gonna use a piece of poster tube cut to size and
line with 2mm craft foam. I alternate the seams of the foam so that they are hidden
when it’s assembled. And then I finish building
up the front barrel housing getting it up
to its thickest points. And now for the scariest
part of the whole build, I need to taper the
front part of the barrel. First I cover anything that I don’t wanna accidentally sand
with painters tape. Now a sander can still chew
through the tape, but it’ll prevent light scratches,
especially on the water bottle. And I’m really worried about
scratching the clear plastic. And it can stay on there to
protect it from paint later. As carefully as I could, I
use 220 grit sanding disc to bevel the barrel edges and I tried not to hurt anything else. I even cut the edge off the
disc so it wouldn’t overhang and scratch the edges of anything. There’s a hose attached to my
sander that runs to my shop vac, this sucks up nearly all
the sanding dust as I work. And I use a sanding block
to fine tune the shapes. I was really worried about
the bottle, but the poster board worked and it was fine in the end. There are recessed panels
on the inside slope so I freehand cut some 2mm foam to shape and then cut out the panels. It looks great after
it’s glued and placed. I added some 5mm foam
paneling and cut a circle to make a ring on the end of the muzzle. I cut two so I had a
spare because I wanted to add a bevel for this
piece on the bench sander and that can ruin the foam in a hurry. I glue some 5mm foam to
thicken the ring and then cut out the center and bevel the inside with a dremel and some sandpaper. The dremel can quickly
make divots in the foam cause it likes to grab
and grind in one spot. So it’s also harder to
use than the bench sander. I had to use some acrylic
caulk to fill in the seams of the shell and everything’s
is smooth as I could get it. And I wanted to use my heat gun to go back and really smooth out
the phone but the heat gun opened up all the seams
worth than when I started. So no heat guns can
get used on this shell. The EBA foam is thicker
than the edge of the shell so I sanded all the
edges of the foam to look thinner after it’s
assembled and I sanded most of the texture off the front shell. It should be smooth on the inside. There are three bumps
in the main shell where wires connect to the front claws. I cut pieces, I heat formed them. And add a flat front
with 2mm foam, then I cut the bases flat and glued
them onto the shell. I add some pieces of foam to the main body so I can glue the shell onto it later Because it doesn’t just glue
right to the main chamber. Where I wanna glue later,
I tape it off because I wanna add glue right to the
foam and not onto the paint. And I make a plug to protect the bottle inside of the muzzle. I super glued a stir stick into that plug which’ll make it easier to remove later. I paint everything with plastic
paint, both black and white. I had sanded all the sharpie
marks off the shell as I was afraid the ink would
bleed through the paint and it does, the few marks
that I’d missed on the front bled through later, definitely
remove sharpie from foam before painting it with white plastidip. When plastidip dries,
it’s kind of a dull color but plastidip makes a
glossifier spray which is great because the portal gun is all shiny and glossy in the first game. To make the front claws, I pulled the windshield wipers off my truck. I cut the blades off, I cut
them up with the dremel. And super glued them into the claw shape. I added a screw in one
place that was more of a pin to help hold things together
with the glue than actually grabbing anything with
the threads of the screw. There are wires that come off
each claw back to the shell. I cut some scrap wire, cut
up a drinking straw and hot glued them together,
I cut the wires long cause I can trim them to fit later. Now that the plastidip is
dry, I can paint that main panel line black with acrylic paint. Then I can remove the
plug from the muzzle. I peel all the tape off and
remove the poster board. And I was relieved to see the
water bottle was not hurt. I used the heat gun to form
a point into the front shell. And I put a lot of contact
cement on the barrel where I want the shell piece to go and gently put them together
while it was still wet. This marks where the glue needs to go on the front shell piece,
then I repaint everything with new cement and carefully
glue the shell to the barrel. I put some white 2mm craft
film around the bottle cap to fill the hole in the
shell and check that my fit is what I want and then I hot glue the bottle cap into the main chamber. By the way, I really
like this black hot glue I got on Amazon, I mean
it’s just hot glue, but it’s solid black in color. I had one more piece to
help hold the back shell on. And I glue the back shell on
just like I did the front. And I pull the shell over the bottle cap to make sure it fits correctly. Since my claws are made
of metal, they’re easy to use to mark their placement
in the foam, cut incisions with an exacto knife and
super glued them in place. I had painted the straws
black and used a drill bit to make a hole for them, then
I hot glued them in place. Then I’ll cut the wire to fit,
use an exacto knife to make a little x to push it into
and super glue it in place. The portal gun has an
Aperture Science logo on it and I had a friend cut some from vinyl. The tiny logo was hard enough to do on a desktop vinyl cutter, but then the vinyl also doesn’t wanna stick to the plastidip. So I fight with each
letter to get it in place. And then carefully cover
them all with white glue to keep them attached and a quick spray of glossifier will hide
the dull white glue. (upbeat music) Now I could’ve made the back
out of different material. This could’ve been really
smooth and shiny and the claws in the front
could’ve been articulating. But everything here I already had on hand. This was all made from scrap
from previous projects. There’s only one thing I actually
purchased, a water bottle. This also gives it a big benefit of being a fraction of the weight
of the official toy. So this would be very easy to
carry around all day at a con. Now remember there’s many
different ways that you can make something, but
this is how Odin makes. (upbeat music) I have a patrion page
where I’m giving away props that I’ve made right here on the page. Christopher Bailey won this month’s prize and he won the Wonder Woman
shield for his daughter, Kayla. If you like the video or have
ideas of something for me to make, please leave them
in the comments below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture. (laser sound) COMPUTER VOICE: Vital
testing apparatus destroyed.